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equosano | Horse Health Articles

equo sano (Latin) translates to "Healthy Horse"

In a nutshell—if you know what characterises a healthy horse, then you will be able to recognise when something is wrong.

Horses are generally considered to be in good health when they have these characteristics:

• Normal temperature (37.5 to 38.6 degrees Celsius).

• Mucous membranes: The horse's gums should be moist and a healthy pink colour.

• Capillary refill time: If you press your finger firmly against your horse's gums, the point of pressure should return to a pink colour within one to two seconds.
  

• A healthy horse will pass (solid & round) manure eight to 12 times a day. their urine should be wheat-coloured and either clear or slightly cloudy.

• Hydration: The average horse drinks between five and 10 gallons of water a day, depending on exercise level and weather conditions.

• Healthy appetite.

• Normal pulse (28 to 44 beats per minute at rest).

• Normal respiration: (8 to 16 breaths per minute at rest).
  

• Intestinal sounds: gurgling and gas-like growls are normal. No intestinal sounds or decreased intestinal sounds can be a sign of colic.

• Relaxed attitude, bright eyes and a shiny coat.

• Right weight (not fat, not thin).

• Legs and feet: The horse should stand squarely with its weight evenly distributed over all four feet. Slightly raising and taking the weight off a hind leg is normal, but not for a foreleg. Your horse's legs should be free of bumps, swelling, cuts or hair loss. There should be no heat in the horse's feet.
  

A quick evaluation of your horse can be done in less than 10 minutes. So, remember to check your horse daily so you know what's 'normal' and what's not!

Health Article: December 2019
Outsmarting the Horse Bot Fly

Adult Horse Bot Fly

Bot flies and their larvae are a common pest and parasite of horses, donkeys and mules. There are numerous species of bot flies (family Oestridae) that target horses. The most common of these is Gasterophilus intestinalis. These bot flies attach their eggs to the horse's legs and upper arms.

Two other species of bot fly are reported in North America, Gasterophilus nasalis and Gasterophilus haemorrhoidalis. These species attach their eggs to the hairs in the nose (G. nasalis) and throat (G. haemorrhoidalis).

In the adult stage, this winged insect looks similar to a bee, and can be seen in stables and outdoors hovering around the legs of the horse.

Bot flies are very irritating to horses. They hover around the animal's legs, neck and face, and dive-bomb the horse as they attempt to attach their eggs to the horse's hair shafts. Horses recognise the tell-tale buzz of the bot fly and become agitated and sometimes even panic in their presence.

When grooming your horse, you may notice tiny yellow specks attached to the hair on the horse's legs, neck or face. These tiny specks are the eggs of the bot fly. A single bot fly may lay as many as 1000 eggs on your horse.

The eggs hatch approximately 10 days after being deposited, and may hatch in response to the moisture and warmth caused by the horse licking the area. The larvae may be ingested by the horse, or may crawl to the mouth where they can cause irritation to the gums. Subsequently, they bury themselves in the tongue, gums or lining of the mouth and remain for approximately 28 days.

Following this phase, the larvae molt and enter their second stage of development and migrate to the horse's gastrointestinal tract. The larvae attach themselves to the lining of the stomach and remain attached for the next 9 to 12 months. During this time, the larvae feed on the fluids from the body of the horse.

Toward the later part of this period, the larvae molt again. The larvae in this third stage have grown to approximately 1/2 to 3/4 of an inch and have a characteristic yellowish color and exhibit spines that can be used to identify the species.

After the third stage larvae mature, they detach from the gastrointestinal tract wall and are passed in the manure. The larvae burrow into the soil or dried manure where they pupate and remain for the next one to two months. This stage of the life cycle occurs between late winter and early spring.

The adult bot fly emerges in the early summer and autumn. The fly has a bee-like appearance, but differs in that it has only a single pair of wings and the abdomen curves downward. The bot fly has small, undeveloped mouth parts and does not feed during its lifetime. The curved abdomen serves as an ovipositor, used to attach eggs to the horse's coat in specific areas.

Adverse Affects of the Bot fly on the Horse's Health

Bot fly larvae can cause dental irritation as they burrow into the gums and tongue shortly after being ingested. As they migrate to the stomach and attach to the stomach walls, they may cause ulcers. Reports of esophageal paralysis have also been reported to result from bot fly infestation. When bot fly larvae migrate through the horse's skin, they cause pock marks in the horse's hair/coat.

Healthy horses tolerate moderate bot fly larvae populations without external symptoms. However, extreme cases, and cases with very young or old horses, may result in other gastric and intestinal disturbances such as impaction, rupture, peritonitis and anemia.

What should you do if you see horse bot flies?

equosano BOT Slayer

If you see bot flies hovering around your horse, inspect your horse's legs, throat and face for the bot fly eggs. These can be removed with a bot fly knife or other scraping device, or a bot fly cream. Most likely, if you have seen the eggs you should plan on dosing your horse with a dewormer that is effective in killing the larvae.

The treatment is generally timed to occur after the first hard frost of the year. This is the point in time when the horse is unlikely to become reinfected and the number of third stage larvae that normally pass in the manure is minimised.

Ways to prevent bot fly infestation in your horse

Daily removal of manure to a distant location, or to a compost pile, will reduce the number of pupae that survive and turn into adult flies. Removal of the eggs from the horse's coat and routine worming will also reduce the survival of future generations.

Can humans become infected by the horse bot fly?

On rare occasions, humans have been infected with bot fly larvae. The first stage larvae have been found migrating in the skin (cutaneous myiasis) and in the eye (ocular myiasis). Horse bots have also been reported in the stomach of humans. Because of this, you may want to wear gloves when removing bot eggs and should always wash your hands with soap and water after contact. Avoid rubbing your eyes or touching your mouth when removing bot fly eggs.

Reference

Bot fly—A Common Horse Pest. (2017, April 21). Retrieved from https://equimed.com/health-centers/general-care/articles/bot-fly-a-common-horse-pest

Health Article: November 2019
Prebiotics May do More Harm Than Good

Prebiotics are only able to help stabilise the intestinal flora of horses to a limited degree. Before they can reach the intestines, commercially available supplements partially break down in the animals' stomachs, which can lead to inflammation of the stomach lining. This was discovered by researchers at Martin Luther University Halle-Wittenberg (MLU) and the University of Veterinary Medicine Hannover (TiHo). The team therefore suggests preparing prebiotic food supplements so that they don't take effect until they reach the large intestine. The study appeared recently in the journal PLOS ONE.

Prebiotics are often added to horse feed in order to stabilise the horse's health. They are indigestible fibres that can stimulate the growth and activity of certain beneficial bacteria in the large intestine. "Horses have a relatively small, non-diverse core microbiome and are therefore very susceptible to digestive disorders," explains Professor Annette Zeyner, head of the animal nutrition group at MLU. However, according to the scientist, insufficient research has been conducted on whether the use of prebiotics actually does produce the desired effects. Her research group explored this question in partnership with Professor Gerhard Breves' lab from TiHo.

For the study, the team investigated the effect of feeding Jerusalem artichoke meal (JAM) on horses. This is a typical prebiotic for horses. In addition to their normal feed, six animals received JAM containing high amounts of certain carbohydrates, so-called fructo-oligosaccharides (FOS) and also inulin. Another group of six horses received a placebo with their normal feed. The researchers then analysed the balance of bacteria in the digestive tract of the animals of both groups. It was discovered that the prebiotics were already being fermented in the stomach by the microorganisms naturally living there—i.e., they were taking effect much too early. "The fermentation process leads to the formation of organic acids that, unlike in the large intestine, can damage the mucous membrane of the horse's stomach," says Maren Glatter, a member of Zeyner's group and lead author of the study.

However, the bacterial diversity of the entire digestive tract did increase, which probably also produces the desired protective effect. "Still, the prebiotics are probably more harmful than beneficial when used in their present form," Zeyner surmises. Instead, the substances must be treated so that they arrive in the large intestine in one dose in order to have a positive effect on the intestinal bacteria living there without stimulating over-activity.

Reference

Martin-Luther-Universität Halle-Wittenberg. (2019, October 1). Horse Nutrition: Prebiotics may do more harm than good. ScienceDaily. Retrieved from www.sciencedaily.com/releases/2019/10/191001102217.htm

Health Article: October 2019
The Healing Power of a Poultice

Plants and minerals have been used for healing since the beginning of time. Our ancestors and indigenous peoples throughout the world used plants and minerals for medicine in varying ways: teas, extracts, tinctures and poultices etc. They learned over time (through trial and error) which minerals and plants, and which parts of a given plant, could be used effectively for healing people and animals.

When it comes to a natural remedy for horses, from sore muscles and burns to insect bites, an organic poultice is a great way to tackle it. Poultices have long been recognised as traditional medicine, with clays, salts, herbs and plants being used to treat both people and animals. In fact, a traditional poultice that was used to treat abscesses and burns was cow manure mixed with clay. While this type of poultice might still be used in various parts of the world today—more sophisticated combinations of ingredients are typically being used.

So, what exactly is a poultice? A poultice is a natural remedy that’s usually filled with beneficial herbs that can quickly heal an affected area, reduce inflammation and improve blood circulation. Poultices are typically made with a combination of various ingredients such as powdered clay, salts, charcoal, leafy herbs and essential oils. The poultice can be applied to the affected area directly, or it can be spread onto a cloth or bandage and then placed on, or wrapped around, the affected area (including the soles of the horse's feet).

Applying a poultice to the affected area is a great option because the affected area gets direct contact with the natural ingredients, allowing healing through immediate absorption through the skin or the sole—and, ultimately, drawing out any infection. Also, a poultice compress is completely natural and you can apply it directly to the source of pain or inflammation so that the horse receives the benefits quickly. Let's face it, getting a horse to sit in a herb-filled tub is not a viable option!

As previously mentioned, the ingredients in a poultice can vary. An epsom salt poultice, for example, can be useful for treating insect bites. The magnesium found in epsom salts can help to alleviate the pain and inflammation caused by injuries, such as sprains and strains, as well as swelling due to the sting from a biting insect. An epsom salt poultice can help to reduce the pain associated with sore muscles and help to relieve the pain from bruises. It can also help draw out the pain associated with an insect sting.

Clay poultices are another type of poultice. Bentonite clay, which is also termed Montmorillonite, is commonly used in equine poultices. This clay is has a high concentration of minerals including silica, calcium, magnesium, sodium, iron, and potassium. It also has the ability to absorb and remove toxins, heavy metals, impurities, and chemicals.

Bentonite clay is a unique clay due to its ability to produce an “electrical charge” when hydrated. Upon contact with fluid its electrical components change, carrying a strong negative charge which bonds to the positive charge in many toxins. When it comes in contact with a toxin, chemical or heavy metal, the clay will absorb the toxin and release its minerals for the body to use. Bentonite also helps get oxygen to cells as it pulls excess hydrogen and allows the cells to replace it with oxygen instead.

equosano Volcanic Mineral Poultice

Used topically, a bentonite clay poultice can be effective for treating all types of skin problems and to speed healing. It's calming to the skin and is especially useful for treating insect bites, cuts and itchy skin or burns.

A clay poultice is typically left on the affected area until it fully dries, and is then washed off. The washing off part is important, as this rinses away the toxins and bacteria that have been absorbed (or adsorbed) into the clay poultice. *We recommend leaving a mineral clay poultice on the affected area for 24 hours.

A poultice can be very effective, but do be aware of the combined ingredients before applying it. *If your horse experiences a sensitivity to any of the ingredients, wash it off immediately.

Health Article: September 2019

The Benefits of BARE Feet

We often assume a horse needs shoes without really thinking about why or how that affects a horse’s overall health. Yet standard veterinary texts, such as books by James Rooney, DVM, and O.R. Adams, DVM, on equine lameness, refer to shoeing as a “necessary evil.” What makes shoeing necessary in some instances is the need for additional traction caused by the weight of the rider, which in turn causes excessive wear to the hoof wall, especially on hard surfaces. What makes shoeing a potential evil is that it restricts the hoof in ways that might not be optimal for its long-term health. The compromise between the requirements of the working horse and the health of the same horse’s feet might be to leave him unshod for a few weeks out of the year.

Barefoot Research

A study carried out by Robert M. Bowker, VMD, PhD, Professor at the College of Veterinary Medicine at Michigan State University, and Lori A. Bidwell, DVM, of the Rood and Riddle Equine Clinic in Lexington, Ky., helps to clarify how allowing a horse to go barefoot for at least a small portion of the year could, in fact, help promote soundness. Bowker’s training is in veterinary medicine and neurobiology. He also teaches first-year veterinary anatomy, morphology (the study of anatomical form), and how to do a neurologic exam on various animals. This familiarity with the anatomy of a variety of species gives him a unique perspective from which to study the equine hoof.

The Study: Bowker examined a sample of 125 barefooted horses (which had never been shod). These horses were mainly Quarter Horses (the study was funded by the American Quarter Horse Association), Thoroughbreds, Arabians, warmbloods, and their crosses that had been turned out on relatively rough gravel and compacted sand terrain (most of which were ridden a few to several times per week). In addition, 10 show horses, used to being shod and working an average competition schedule, were turned out barefoot on similar terrain during the fall, winter, and spring. Plaster casts were made of the bottom of the hooves of their right forelegs for measurement and evaluation purposes for nearly five months. What evolved from this study was that if horses were allowed to go barefoot, their feet eventually began to gain characteristics that most believe correspond to a healthier foot.

Three weeks after shoe removal, the front feet of these show horses showed definite signs of changing conformation. Their feet tended to widen with a more “shallow cupping” of the soles. The central sulci became shallower or more open, rather than having deep crevices at the heel area, and calluses began to form on the soles at the toe, indicating greater wear and weight bearing at that site. There was a reduction in the distance between the apex of the frog and the toe at the dorsal hoof wall, as the breakover distance was shortened naturally in these horses by the way in which they moved over the terrain.

At six to nine weeks after shoe removal with normal wear and no trimming, the entire frog area became larger, and the width of the feet increased as well. The heels of the frogs (back part of the frogs) usually began to make contact with the ground at that time, which resulted in a gradual enlargement of the frog and parts of the sole surface. This increased weight-bearing surface of the foot distributes the weight of the horse over a greater area, which reduces the load or stress on the entire weight-bearing area.

During the same time frame, with normal wear and no trimming, the imprints of the feet on imprint boards and plaster of Paris moldings clearly showed that the bars and frog had begun supporting the horse’s weight.

Having dissected thousands of feet, Bowker recognizes that these horses’ adapted barefoot hoof characteristics are the same as those found in sound hooves with no internal problems. Conversely, his goal is to learn which external hoof characteristics might indicate internal hoof problems and potential lameness.

His findings show that in healthier feet, the bars on the bottom of the foot make contact with the ground and exhibit a wider angle than feet in worse shape. The paracunal sulci (next to the frog) of these healthy hooves are usually packed with dirt, not manure. It seems that an optimal angle for the bars might be critical to a healthy foot–a wider angle (about 60°) is better than bar angles that are more vertical or upright, such as those seen in contracted feet. Healthy feet seem to exhibit an equilateral (equal-sided) triangle in the distances between the heels and the apex of the frog.

Bowker’s information corresponds with studies by Gene Ovnicek, Registered Journeyman Farrier (RJF), and others on wild mustang feet. There has been some controversy over what the data on wild mustangs has to do with shod domestic horses, since mustangs are not subject to domestic conditions. In part, this discussion was due to the idea that wild mustangs were actually a separate species and therefore related to the domestic horse, but different genetically. As it turns out, these herds are actually a melting pot of many breeds, so the designation of “feral horses” is more accurate. What that means is that any differences in the feet of feral horses compared to domestic horses is due primarily to environment rather than genetics. Once this is clarified, it becomes evident that environment makes a substantial contribution to hoof health, or lack thereof.

What’s a “Good” Foot?

Studies have sought to discover exactly what factors promote the optimal health of the equine hoof. Since problem feet in the wild are generally weeded out by natural selection, the remaining herd forms a perfect sample for observing the characteristics of healthy feet.

There is a considerable overlap in the characteristics of feral horses’ feet and the feet of healthy domestic horses allowed to roam barefoot for a few weeks. The overlap between feral hooves’ characteristics and those of shod domestic horses is not as great, yet the trends are undeniably similar.

Both studies demonstrated that only when the feet are overgrown is the hoof wall used as the primary weight-bearing surface. In both instances, as long as the horse is allowed to move freely over varied terrain, the hoof wall is filed down in response to the environment with the bars, frog, and sole (especially the callus) bearing a considerable percentage of the horse’s weight.

This is an important distinction because of how these weight-bearing dynamics place stress on different parts of the hoof. Bowker found that when a bare hoof is placed on a hard surface, only a small percentage of the foot surface actually bears weight (6-7%), while in the same feet placed on a hard rubber surface, the percentage of the surface area bearing weight increases to about 25%.

The important point here is that as the weight-bearing area of the hoof increases from harder to softer surfaces, the load on the tissues decreases rather dramatically. While the area for support increases as the horse moves from concrete to hard rubber, the actual load in the tissues will be reduced by more than six times. While this difference in load with different surfaces might seem relevant to a discussion of hoof characteristics, consider this: Reducing load by increasing the area of the hoof contacting the ground decreases load on those weight-bearing structures–whether it’s because of a softer surface or because of hoof conformation.

Additionally, Bowker’s findings showed that when the horse puts weight on a hoof, the hoof wall flexes outward 2-4 millimeters depending on the hardness of the footing. This leaves us with something to think about–if we are artificially impeding this movement by nailing shoes onto the hoof wall, how does that impact the structures of the foot?

Rooney’s revised edition of his classic text The Lame Horse also refers to this dilemma. He states that if you draw a chalk line around the foot of a shod horse standing on hard ground, then do the same thing 15 minutes after the shoe has been pulled, you will find that the foot has expanded beyond the original line. The shoe restricts the normal expansion of the hoof.

In addition, the hoof wall has a degree of “fluidity” to it that enables it to move depending upon the surface that the hoof is placed upon. This “fluidness” depends on the moisture content of the hoof wall as well as the qualities of the hoof wall itself. The increased surface area of contact when the hoof is placed upon hard rubber, Bowker believes, is due to both the movement of the hoof wall and the rubber–it is more than sinking into the rubber. All of this confirms the importance of good footing and hoof wall quality to a horse’s soundness.

The Sensitive Hoof

Proprioception is the capacity of the nervous system to sense where the body and the limbs are in space, and to evaluate weight-bearing surfaces as well as touch. There are different receptors or nerve endings for different kinds of stimuli, and Bowker’s research has focused on receptors that relate specifically to locomotion. This subject has been well mapped out in cats and laboratory rats, but up to this point, little has been done to understand how horses assess the ground beneath them.

The same receptors that stimulate cutaneous (skin) sensations in other species are present in the equine hoof. The hoof is a sensitive and responsive organ, much like (though not quite as sensitive as) the tips of our fingers. This might help explain why their feet (and gaits) respond differently to different surfaces.

The other implication of this is that by altering the bottom of horses’ hooves, we might be interfering more than we realize with their perception of the environment. Control of the muscular contractions that stimulate movement depends on information from the receptors about the terrain the horse’s feet are encountering, which helps the brain decide how much and how quickly muscles should contract in order to achieve the desired movement. The information from the receptors might be inaccurate if the hoof (their interface with the environment) has been altered.

Environmental Effects

According to Bowker’s research, environment is critical in the formation of the internal structures of the equine hoof. The lateral cartilage and the digital cushion respond to their environment and use. In feral horses, the digital cushion is smaller and the lateral cartilage is larger.

The inner portion of the lateral cartilage, closest to the digital cushion, tends to be fibrocartilage (made up mostly of fibers like normal connective tissue) in “good-footed” horses. The evidence of hundreds of Bowker’s dissections indicates that the healthier foot is the one that has thick lateral cartilage tissue with considerable fibrocartilage and a digital cushion composed of fibrocartilage, rather than one with a thin lateral cartilage (0.22 inches thick versus 0.4-0.8 inches thick in healthy hooves) and a fatty, elastic digital cushion. In the younger horse (less than four or five years of age), this part of the foot has not fully developed yet; as far as we know, the digital cushion is still composed mainly of fat and elastic tissue.

“We believe that given the correct stimuli, i.e., exercise, the lateral cartilage and digital cushion will respond,” Bowker says.

Environment is a very important contributor to the formation and composition of the internal structures of the equine foot. Bowker’s findings suggest that the lateral cartilages and digital cushion respond to various stimuli within the environment–i.e., if the foot is used (and stimulated by the ground), the internal structures will respond to support the weight and function of the foot and horse. Conversely, if the horse becomes a “couch potato,” remaining in the stall for much of the day or not being given sufficient foot stimulation, the internal foot does not respond or develop into a good foot. In feral horses the lateral cartilages are much larger and thicker than in these “couch potatoes,” and the digital cushion is composed mainly of fibrocartilage.

This means that it is important for horses to be allowed access to turnout, preferably over varied terrain on a regular basis. The stimulus of free contact with the environment at least three to five times a week, in addition to regular work, is what generates more resilient tissues inside the hoof. The gradual nature of the change requires a consistent regimen of activity.

“We believe that the more exercise the better, much as with our own health!” says Bowker.

Bowker’s findings are confirmed by Ovnicek’s work with feral horses. The most striking difference between the feral horses and domestic horses was visible in the feet of feral yearlings, which exhibited enormous frogs. These horses have no option but to be moving at speed on a variety of terrain within an hour of birth. The ensuing size of the frog and apparent health of the foot indicate the beneficial effect: Most farriers know that foals which are turned out will not have as many foot problems as those foals that remain in the “comfortable” setting of the stall on thick bedding.

“It’s similar to humans taking our shoes off and walking over a rocky road,” Bowker says. “The first time we do it, it hurts our feet, but if we did it all summer we could do it with ease and not even notice it! The horse isn’t much different.”

Although shoes are quite necessary for some horses to do what humans ask them to, many don’t need them and indeed are better off without them. Also, shod horses have been shown to benefit from a period of turnout without shoes. If your horse is constantly shod, you should work with your farrier (and possibly your veterinarian) to decide if some barefoot time should be part of your horse’s future. Even without shoes, the hoof should still be trimmed professionally on a regular basis (i.e., at five- to six- week intervals).

Reference

The Horse Managing Editor. (2001. July 1). Barefoot Benefits. Retrieved from https://thehorse.com/14968/barefoot-benefits/

Health Article: August 2019

The Behavourial Benefits of a Low Starch Equine Diet

What you feed your horse can affect their behaviour.

A recent university study has revealed that the amount of starch in a horse’s diet can affect him both behaviorally and physiologically. To better understand its effects, Tanner Price, a graduate student at Virginia Tech, in Blacksburg, assessed university riding program horses' behavioral and metabolic responses to diets with varying fat and starch levels. She shared her findings at the 2019 Equine Science Society Symposium, held June 3-6 in Asheville, North Carolina.

The study: Price split 20 riding horses into five groups of four. Each group received a different starch-to-fat ratio in their diet, ranging from 7.1% to 14.3% starch. Throughout the 21-day period, all horses were fed twice daily, housed individually in stalls, and ridden in regular collegiate lessons (beginner to advanced equitation and hunter/jumper classes). She asked riders and instructors that were oblivious to the horses treatment groups to complete a behaviour survey after each lesson. They evaluated the behaviour of each horse when being caught, led and groomed, as well as their energy levels while ridden, reaction to leg aids, relaxation, submission, and more. Price took blood samples on the first and last days of the trial after the horses had fasted for 12 hours.

Price found that:

• The diets had no significant effects on the horses body weight or body condition score. Although Price expected this, as all treatment groups were balanced by body weight.
• Horses on high-starch, low-fat diets had higher behaviour reactivity scores from both instructors and riders.
• Horses on low-starch diets became better behaved over time, and vice versa.
• Diet type didn’t significantly affect insulin sensitivity, whereas an increased number of workouts did. This means diet composition might not influence insulin sensitivity as significantly if horses are in heavy exercise, she explained.

After carrying out the study, Price was able to conclude that “feeding high-starch, low-fat grain mixes can negatively influence the behaviour of performance horses under saddle.”

Reference

The Horse. (2019. July 30). Want a Better-Behaved Horse? Consider Feeding a Low-Starch Diet. Retrieved from https://thehorse.com/176821/want-a-better-behaved-horse-consider-feeding-a-low-starch-diet/

Health Article: July 2019

The Horse Rug Misconception

When you put your hand under a rug on a horse standing still it should NEVER feel toasty warm—it should feel more on the coolish side! Hmmm I hear you say.

The temperature you are used to feeling under your horse's rug/blanket is too hot for a healthy horse, because a horse's body temperature is supposed to be maintained at around 38°C through a well-developed mechanism, known as thermoregulation. Thermoregulation: How horses stay at the right temperature. So, horses can maintain this temperature effectively uncovered, but can’t do so with a rug on.

With a traditional rug on, the only way this temperature can be maintained is if the horse stands still all day. This is not healthy for a number of reasons; one being that the horse depends on movement for good digestion.

If your covered horse is standing still and feels toasty warm then as soon as he starts to move he overheats. Muscle movement creates inner core body heat. So when a horse starts to feel cold, he starts to move, and consequently, warms up. As an example, lets look at ourselves. If the outside temperature outside is cold, we tend to put on a jumper and coat to go outside so we feel warm. However, as soon as we walk a short distance up the paddock our muscle movement creates inner core body heat and we may want to shed those extra layers.

Well, this is exactly the same scenario with our horses, but unfortunately they cannot take their coat off. So they have to suffer in the paddock because we are doing what we think is right, not what our horse wants. People who repair rugs are only in the business because of two things: One is barbed wire fences, but the major reason is 'rubbing' horses who are constantly uncomfortable because of what we put on them!

Health Article: June 2019

Relieve Your Horse's Anxiety with Lavender Essential Oil

Lavender essential oil can be beneficial for horses when used as directed. It's soothing, calming and therapeutic.

Trailering, bathing, clipping, vet visits, hoof trims, bridling and saddling (and more) can often be the cause of your horse's stress. Thanks to nature, however, equine stress can be managed quickly and effectively with the use of pure lavender essential oil, or lavender-based, natural equine products.

The benefits of lavender essential oil are far-reaching. It has been used on people and animals for aromatherapy and health purposes for thousands of years with successful results.  One major benefit of lavender essential oil is that can significant reduce stress and calm people and animals. Equine research has shown the effectiveness of lavender essential oil for significantly reducing stress in horses. One such study was recently conducted at UA in Tucson, Arizona by UA professor of physiology and psychology, Anne Baldwin and her then-students.

Horses were used to teach the students about heart rate and heart rate variability, which is a measure of the variation in time between each heartbeat. Both are indicators of the level of stress a person or animal is experiencing, though heart rate variability is a much more sensitive measurement. Heart rate was the focus of a limited amount of prior research on the use of aromatherapy to calm horses in the presence of a stressor, such as trailering.

During one study, horses were startled by an air horn and then provided with humidified lavender essential oil air. The horses' heart rates increased in response to the air horn but returned to normal more quickly in those that inhaled the lavender essential oil. * None of the studies looked at a horse's response to aromatherapy in the absence of an imposed stressor, though, and none measured heart rate variability.

"We wanted to test regular horses that aren't stressed out by external forces," said Baldwin, who rides dressage on her 18-year-old quarter horse, Major. "Some horses and some breeds, it's just in their nature that they are more stressed. So, we wanted to use horses that were not being scared deliberately to see what effect, if any, the aromatherapy had on them."

Baldwin enlisted the help of other owners at her boarding stable to put together a group of nine dressage horses of varying breeds and ages. Each horse was led to a small paddock and held by a volunteer while a diffuser containing lavender essential oil was held near the horse's nose. A monitor tracked heart rates and heart rate variability for 21 minutes total—seven minutes before the introduction of the diffuser, seven minutes with the diffuser in close proximity, and seven minutes after it was removed.

"The heart rate didn't change; what changed is what's called the parasympathetic component of heart rate variability," Baldwin explained. "One of the parameters of heart rate variability is RMSSD, and that represents parasympathetic input, which is the relaxation part of the autonomic nervous system. If RMSSD goes up, that indicates the horse is relaxed. We found that when the horses were sniffing the lavender, RMSSD significantly increased compared to baseline."

The data were supported by the horses' observed behaviour, which often included relaxation signals such as neck lowering and licking and chewing while the lavender was being inhaled. The experiment was repeated with water vapor and chamomile, neither of which produced a similar calming effect or increase in RMSSD.

"We did get a calming effect with the lavender, but when we measured afterward, we no longer had the effect," Baldwin said. "So, it's just during the sniffing of the lavender that we see this calming effect."

This research has direct implications for horsemen and horsewomen who may be looking for healthier, natural ways to calm an anxious or nervous horse. Lavender essential oil provides an effective, safe and natural means for doing just that—and it can be used precisely and exactly when needed. You don't need to use a diffuser—just let your horse sniff a few drops on your hand or apply our Anxiety Relief Oil nearby your horse's nostrils for a longer-lasting effect.

Reference

University of Arizona. (2018. July 28). "A calmer horse is just a sniff away." ScienceDaily. Retrieved from www.sciencedaily.com/releases/2018/07/180728084141.htm

Health Article: May 2019

Practical tips for 'winterising' your horse

Horses need additional energy during cold, winter months.

Horses need additional energy in the colder winter months to maintain their internal body temperature and keep warm. The exact amount of energy depends on the severity and extent of the cold period. When environmental temperatures (including wind chill) drop below 0°C (referred to as the critical temperature), significant amounts of energy are used by the horse to maintain its internal body heat.  For each 1°C decrease below the critical temperature, the horse requires a 1% increase in digestible energy to maintain a consistent body temperature. Wind chill, moisture, and coat thickness will affect the critical temperature. The horse’s thick winter coat has an insulating effect against cold and wind.

The falling temperatures in winter inhibits grass growth and natural forage rapidly depletes. Thus, horses must increasingly rely on their owners to provide them with a nutritionally adequate diet. To properly feed a horse during the winter months several key factors must be addressed: water, fibre and essential nutrients.

Quality Water

Water should always be the first consideration in the diet of any horse. An adult horse (500 kg) in a cool, comfortable environment (that is not working or lactating) requires a minimum of 25 to 35 litres of fresh, clean water per day.
The greatest concern for horse owners in cold winter months is impaction colic. This form of colic can happen when the horse becomes dehydrated due to consuming less water in cooler temperatures (no sweating), drinking cold water and eating a diet of hay (10% water content) instead of pasture (80% water content). When horses drink cold water during the winter, their bodies must expend additional calories to warm their tissues back up from the heat loss that is incurred—so they instinctively drink less.

Research has shown that horses drink the most water when the water temperature is between 7 and 20º C. Optimum water consumption will keep the fibre in the horse’s digestive system hydrated, allowing it to be broken down efficiently by intestinal bacteria and to be pliable, and less likely to “ball up” and cause a blockage in the large intestine. The water requirement is higher if the horse is in training, nursing a foal, growing or is pregnant.

Fibre Intake

Adequate fibre intake is the next consideration in feeding horses during the winter season. It is recommended that horses receive a minimum of 1.5% of their body weight in hay (fibre) per day. For a 500kg horse, this equates to 7.5 kg of hay per day. Horses can consume up to 3% of the body weight per day in hay (15 kg for a 500kg horse) if the hay is of good quality.

The fibre obtained from hay is necessary to keep the digestive system of the horse functioning properly. Without this hay fibre, horses will seek out other sources of fibre including bedding and wood fences or trees to satisfy their needs. Adequate fibre from hay is even more critical during the winter months since it is the feed ingredient that keeps horses warm during cold weather. Digestion and fermentation of hay produces heat that helps the horse maintain its body temperature during winter.

Unlike hay, consumption of grain does not produce large amounts of body heat during digestion. One problem that may arise with horses during the winter months is chronic weight loss. This can occur either by not feeding enough hay or by feeding poor quality hay to the horse. In both cases the horse will have trouble getting enough calories to maintain body weight. In the case of not feeding enough hay, the simple remedy is to provide all the hay the horse will consume during the day. If the horse is being fed all the hay it will consume and weight loss is still an issue, better quality hay must be fed.

Essential Nutrients

The protein, trace mineral and vitamin needs of the horse must be satisfied. Winter is a critical time to supply these nutrients since pasture—a good natural source of nutrients—is generally depleted.

The common source of supplemental protein, vitamins and minerals is from fortified feed concentrates. When choosing a feed concentrate you have to make sure, you are feeding the recommended amount. If you are feeding 1/3 of the amount recommended, you are getting exactly 1/3 of the intended nutrients for that type of horse. If you feel the amount of feed recommended is too much i.e. your horse is gaining too much weight you should feed a more concentrated product.

Tips for getting your horse ready for winter

1. Strive to keep your horse in a good body condition prior to winter months as the extra body fat provides an additional insulating effect against wind and also serves as an energy reserve.
2. Increasing forage and concentrate will be necessary in horses of poor condition. Increase the dry-matter content of the diet 24 hours prior to forecasted cold conditions.
3. Better quality hay typically contains higher calories. For example; alfalfa compared to grass hay. Other fibre substitutes include beet pulp.
4. Supplementing fat is beneficial to increasing the energy density of concentrates.
5. Older horses and those in poor condition have additional needs during the winter. Starting them on a high caloric diet before winter can help them to maintain weight during cold weather. Look for one with a fat level of 7% or more, as it will provide the extra calories needed to keep the horse from losing weight during the winter.
6. Winter is also the time when the stable may be “closed up” in an effort to make the environment warmer and less draughty for the horse. Good ventilation is more important than providing a little more warmth, so be sure to provide good air flow in your stable even in winter time.

Health Article: April 2019

Endocrine-Disrupting Chemcials (EDCs)

Endocrine-disrupting chemicals (EDCs) in a horse's environment may play a role in the development of equine metabolic syndrome (EMS). This finding, made by Morris Animal Foundation-funded researchers at The University of Minnesota, could explain some of the variability in EMS severity that can't be explained by other commonly measured factors, such as diet, exercise and season. The study was published in Chemosphere.

"This is a pivotal piece of a very complicated jigsaw puzzle. There are a lot of horse owners out there who are very diligent about providing their horses fantastic care, but the horse is still diagnosed," said Dr. Molly McCue, Professor and interim Associate Dean of Research in the College of Veterinary Medicine, University of Minnesota. "It's important to be aware that these chemicals contribute to the problem, so we can look for ways to reduce horses' exposure to them."

The team studied more than 300 horses from 32 farms in the United States and Canada. They focused on Welsh ponies and Morgan horses, as these breeds are more likely to develop EMS than others. The team collected data on the horses' lifestyles, including diet, exercise and past illnesses, as well as their farm location.

Researchers also examined plasma from the horses and looked for EDCs that have effects on receptors in the horse (estrogen [EEQ] and aryl hydrocarbon [TEQ] receptors). Simultaneously, they determined whether an individual horse had blood test results consistent with an EMS profile (including insulin and glucose at rest and following a sugar challenge). The team then analyzed the results to look for correlations between plasma EDC concentration and these variables.

The team concluded that accumulation of EDCs may explain some environmental variance seen in horses with EMS, but the precise role and dose response to EDCs in horses with EMS is not clear at this time.

Endocrine-disrupting chemicals usually are human-made substances, found in products such as pesticides, plastics and personal care products. They are heavily prevalent in the environment and can mimic a body's hormones, blocking real ones from doing their jobs. Because of this, they are known to produce harmful effects in humans and wildlife. Horses likely come into contact with EDCs through their food.

Equine metabolic syndrome, which has no cure, is characterized by endocrine abnormalities in horses and ponies. Affected horses and ponies have a tendency to develop pockets of fat and/or become obese, and they have altered insulin dynamics. EMS also is one of the most common causes of laminitis, a painful and very debilitating inflammation of tissue in a horse's hooves, leading to reduced performance, and in severe cases necessitating euthanasia.

"The more we know about a disease, especially a devastating and incurable disease like EMS, the more we can find innovative ways to prevent it," said Dr. Kelly Diehl, Morris Animal Foundation Interim Vice President of Scientific Programs. "While EDCs are difficult to avoid at the moment, the information from this study will greatly improve veterinarians' ability to predict the disease and provide opportunities to prevent it."

This is the first study to examine associations between EDCs and disease in domestic animals. Dr. McCue said it remains to be seen how significant the association is, but hopes future studies will further scientific understanding and help advance veterinary care for horses.

Reference

Morris Animal Foundation. (2019, February 13). Endocrine-disrupting chemicals linked to equine metabolic syndrome, study shows. ScienceDaily. Retrieved from www.sciencedaily.com/releases/2019/02/190213124456.htm

* This article, on its own, highlights the importance of using organic equine products—free of nasty , toxic chemicals.

Health Article: March 2019

Understanding the Complexity of Laminitis Disease

Laminitis is a complex, common and often devastating disease. In fact, it is the second biggest killer of domestic horses. Fortunately, important research on laminitis has recently emerged and is available to be shared online.

Laminitis is a complex, common and often devastating disease.

As knowledge of the pathophysiology, diagnosis and treatment of the deadly condition continues to grow, the Equine Veterinary Journal (EVJ) has published Understanding and Managing Equine Endocrinopathic Laminitis—a special online collection of 27 papers and three accompanying editorials compiled by EVJ Associate Editor Nicola Menzies-Gow and QUT's Dr Melody de Laat.

Over the past ten years researchers have made great strides in understanding the pathophysiology of endocrinopathic laminitis. Dr de Laat summarised the collection's papers on the links between insulin dysregulation, equine metabolic syndrome (EMS), pituitary pars intermedia dysfunction (PPID) and laminitis.

"We have defined insulin is the key player in endocrinopathic laminitis. We know horses and ponies with EMS and PPID are at an increased risk for developing endocrinopathic laminitis and we have come to understand that it's insulin dysregulation in these animals which is helping to drive the laminitis," said Dr de Laat.

She further added that there was much discussion about the role of obesity in laminitis. A couple of pathophysiology articles in the collection look at the fact that generalised obesity isn't necessarily a factor of endocrinopathic laminitis.

"What's actually going on in the foot of an animal with laminitis is still little understood. Several papers focus on lamellar lesions. Others look at the role that growth factor receptors may play in the disease," Dr de Laat said.

"I am really optimistic that within the next ten years we are going to be able to understand the pathophysiology of this condition really well. And then we'll be able to turn our attention to new treatment options for the disease, which will help horses to become pain free."

Dr Nicola Menzies-Gow's editorial reviews the collection's papers on the diagnosis of endocrinopathic laminitis. An accurate diagnosis of laminitis relies on owner recognition of the disease. One of the papers sought to validate this and identified 45% of cases diagnosed by the vet which were not recognised by owners, highlighting the need for better education of owners.

"Detection of insulin dysregulation is essential to identify animals at increased risk of endocrinopathic laminitis so that the preventative management strategies can be focused on these individual animals," says Dr Menzie-Gow, who works at the Royal Veterinary College, London.

Reference

Queensland University of Technology. (2019, February 15). Laminitis research to help save horses and ponies. ScienceDaily. Retrieved from www.sciencedaily.com/releases/2019/02/190215092848.htm

Health Article: February 2019

The Importance of Water for Horses

Water is the horse’s most vital nutrient. An adult horse’s body is composed of approximately 70 percent water, which equates to about 363 litres of water for the average 499 kilo horse. Foals’ bodies have even higher water content, roughly 80 percent, and on a weight-to-weight basis, small horses consume more water than large horses.

Water is the horse's most vital nutrient.

There are several factors that influence a horse’s daily water requirements: age; body condition; the amount, type and quality of feed consumed; fitness level; and activity level. Add to that the temperature, as well as the freshness, purity and palatability of the available water and it becomes obvious that there are numerous factors that influence water consumption. Because fat is low in water content compared to lean muscle—fat horses typically require less water than horses maintained at optimal body condition.

As a general rule, a horse’s water intake is proportional to their dry-matter intake—although the composition and digestibility of the feed is also a factor. Horses consuming all-hay diets drink more water than horses fed a grain diet coupled with hay or a complete pelleted diet.

Horses on good-quality pastures, which can be 65 to 80 percent water, will consume less drinking water compared to horses on hay and grain because a large percentage of their water needs are met by the moisture in the grass. That is why idle horses might typically consume less water in the summer than in the winter when they are stalled and are on a hay-based diet. Their total water intake may be identical during both seasons—just coming from different sources.

We all know that salt consumption increases thirst, but feed protein intake above the horse’s requirement increases both water intake and urinary output, as the horse voids excess nitrogen via urine.

An idle, 499 kilo horse in a cool environment will drink 22 to 38 litres of water per day. That amount may increase to 57 litres per day in a hot environment. Work horses require 38 to 68 litres of water per day on average but could require much more in hot weather. Nursing mares drink more water because of fluid loss associated with milk production and increased consumption of feed to support milk production. A 499 kilo nursing mare can easily drink up to 76 litres of water per day. Foals also have higher water requirements and will drink 22 to 30 litres of water per day even in relatively cool weather.

A horse’s water consumption will also be greatly affected by the temperature of the water. Consumption appears to be best when the water temperature is between 7 to 18 degrees Celsius.

Sudden weather changes can also affect water consumption and lead to problems such as impaction colic. To combat this, add 30 to 60 g of a loose natural salt to the horse’s daily ration when weather changes are imminent. The salt will stimulate water consumption.

Horses typically drink less water in cold weather, whereas heat and humidity increase their water requirements. In exercising horses, water intake may increase as much as 80 percent in horses moved from a cool climate to a hot, humid climate.

Depending on the conditions in which a horse is exercised, total water intake for a 499 kilo horse can increase from a normal 18 to 45 litres per day to as high as 136 litres per day!

The bottom line is that ALL horses need clean, good-quality water at all times. Outdoor water troughs should be cleaned at least every couple of weeks to remove debris and algae. Stall water buckets should be emptied and rinsed daily. Check automatic water systems daily, as they could malfunction and not be providing adequate amounts of water.

Reference

Lenz, T. (2016). Cool, Clear Water. Retrieved from https://aaep.org/horsehealth/cool-clear-water 

Health Article: January 2019

Common Equine Skin Diseases

Horses are prone to skin diseases in the same way that people are. The challenge is working out what has caused the skin disease—i.e., whether it is fungal, parasitic, bacterial or viral infection, an insect bite, sunburn, allergic reaction, bruise or abrasion (or something else).

The good news is that most equine skin diseases and conditions are not as serious as they may appear and, in most cases, a knowledgeable horse owner can manage these skin conditions on their own once they know what has caused the issue. However, this can sometimes be tricky, as some skin issues can look very similar even though they stem from different causes. Horse owners also need to be knowledgeable about the type of treatment required so as not to cause further damage resulting in more serious issues.

Persistent skin problems typically caused by an altered (poor) immune system—brought on by poor nutrition, age, neglect or by some other disease. Therefore, if your horse’s skin problem does not positively respond to treatment or continues to recur, you may need to talk to a natural horse health expert or a veterinarian to ascertain the root cause of the issue. A natural, non-toxic treatment plan can then be developed, which may include dietary and management changes.

The following equine skin diseases are quite common. However, when noticed early, they can be successfully and safely managed on your own.

1. RAIN ROT (or rain scald)

Appearance: scabby crusts that form raised bumps with upright tufts of matted hair. The crusts form on parts of the body that are chronically damp—typically along the top line and where rain runs off down the barrel, shoulders or hindquarters. They can also appear on the lower legs or on the faces of horses who regularly stand in mud or graze tall, wet grass. Over time, the crusts peel off, leaving small, round bare spots; pus may also be visible under newly sloughed scabs.

• Causes: Rain Rot is a bacterial infection. The causative organism, Dermatophilus congolensis, can reside on the skin without causing trouble, but it multiplies rapidly in a moist environment. If the bacteria find a break in the skin, whether a small wound or insect bite, an active infection can develop. Anything that compromises a horse's immunity—advanced age, malnutrition or illness can make him more susceptible to the infection, as can having a heavy winter coat, which tends to trap moisture against the skin. Rain rot is uncomfortable (even painful) for the horse and can cause unsightly patches of hair loss.
• Treatment: First remove the horse from wet conditions and place him in an environment where his coat can dry out thoroughly. A variety of unnatural and natural, plant-based anti-microbial shampoos, rinses and sprays are available that help to treat rain rot infections. SEE our Anti-Fungal Face & Body Wash and Anti-Fungal Spray—it has proven to be an effective, and quick, rain-rot treatment. The horse's coat will probably need to be treated daily for at least a week. The specific duration of treatment depends on the product being used and the severity of the infection. Spot treating may be effective if only a small area is affected; otherwise, giving the horse a full bath may be advisable. Picking off loose scabs may help them heal faster, as exposing the bacteria to air helps to kill them. It will also enable topical treatments to penetrate further. But do not remove scabs if they are still tight, as pulling on them can be painful for the horse. Call your veterinarian if an infection fails to improve after a week, despite treatment, as you vet can make sure your horse has rain rot, not some other similar condition.
• Prevention: Ensure you have a dry area that your horse can retreat to in wet weather and keep your run-in shed's roof in good shape. Waterproof blankets and light sheets can also help keep pastured horses dry; just make sure their coats are not damp when you put them on. Groom often, both to clear away mud or dirt, which can hold moisture against the skin, and to spot the infection in its earliest stages. Disinfect all blankets and equipment that came in contact with an infected horse before reuse.

 2. RINGWORM (fungal dermatitis)

• Appearance: rounded hairless patches with crusty, scabby skin. The lesions are most common on the face, neck,     shoulders, chest or under the saddle or girth, but they can appear anywhere on the body. The affected areas may be sore or itchy, but they often cause no discomfort, and the horse may appear otherwise healthy.
• Causes: Despite the name, ringworm is a fungal infection, which can be caused by several organisms, usually members of the Trichophyton or Microsporum families. The fungi, called dermatophytes, consume keratin, the protein that forms the structure of hair and epidermal skin cells. The fungi can survive for months in the environment; on tack or fences, and they can be carried on the skin for up to three weeks before signs of infection are evident. During this time, the fungi can be easily spread to other animals, and sudden outbreaks may affect every horse in a herd. Left untreated, the lesions will continue to grow and spread. Although infections might heal eventually on their own, the horses would be highly contagious until they do.
• Treatment: If you suspect ringworm, immediately isolate the affected horse from all other animals, including cats and dogs as well as other livestock. Clipping the hair around the lesions and removing scabs and crusty material as much as you can without causing the horse pain will reduce the organisms' food source. SEE our Anti-fungal Face & Body Wash and Anti-fungal Spray—this is known to be very effective in treating ringworm infections. However, call your veterinarian if the lesions continue to spread or the horse's skin does not appear to be healing after a week, as he/she can confirm that the infection is ringworm by scraping off a few skin cells and examining them under a microscope for the presence of fungal spores. If the case is severe or if you are handling many cases at once, your veterinarian may prescribe oral medications that can be used in combination with the natural topical washes and sprays.
  
• Prevention: Keep separate tack, equipment and grooming supplies for every horse in your care, and do not share with     others at shows or events. Quarantine new horses brought to your farm for at least two weeks to make sure they aren't carrying ringworm or other contagious diseases. In the case of an outbreak, clean and disinfect any tack or equipment as well as wash stalls and fences in communal areas that other animals may have had contact with. Use a power washer to get disinfectant into all the crevices. Remember that people can get ringworm as well as all your other animals, including cats and dogs. Always wear gloves when handling infected horses and exposed equipment.

3. WARTS (papillomas)

• Appearance: raised gray or pink cauliflower-like growths that are usually fairly small, not much bigger than peas. They may appear singly or in clusters, most commonly on the muzzle or around the eyes but also occasionally on the ears, genitals and lower legs. The growths do not appear to cause any pain or discomfort.
• Causes: Warts are caused by the equine papillomavirus, an organism that can survive on skin, equipment and structures for weeks. Younger horses, under 3 years of age, are more susceptible, although warts can appear in adults. The warts are harmless, unless they are inhibiting the horse from eating, blinking or moving or they are interfering with tack.
• Treatment: Left alone, the warts typically shrink and disappear, leaving no scars, over the course of about four months as the young horse's immune system develops. They are likely to persist for a year or more when they appear in older horses. Warts that need to be removed can by excised with laser or cryosurgery, but these procedures may leave scars. If warts do not go away on their own, have your veterinarian examine them; other diseases and conditions, including some sarcoids, can look very similar to papillomas.
• Prevention: Isolate affected horses from others, especially younger ones. Disinfect any shared tack or equipment.

SEE our Anti-Fungal Face & Body Wash and Anti-Fungal Spray. Based on our own experiences and customer feedback, these two products (in combination) have successfully treat equine warts when used regularly over time (the timing tends to vary).

 4. AURAL PLAQUES (papillary acanthoma, ear papillomas)

• Appearance: flat, crusty, raised white lesions inside the ears; underneath, the skin may be pink and sensitive. Aural plaques usually cause no pain and are considered to be just a cosmetic problem. But biting flies may irritate the lesions, and some horses may begin to resist bridling or having their ears handled. Both ears are likely to be affected. They are not likely to shrink or go away on their own.
• Causes: Aural plaques are caused by an equine papillomavirus that is thought to be spread by biting flies, such as the black fly, that target the ears. The plaques may appear in horses of any age or breed.
• Treatment: Unless the ear plaques are bothering the horse, no treatment is required. Most horses resent having the plaques physically pulled off, and doing so can inflame the ears and make the problem worse. If the plaques are causing ear sensitivity, consult your veterinarian.
• Prevention: Take precautions to protect your horse against biting flies, especially black flies. Use fly spray, and outfit your horse with a fly mask that includes ear coverings. Also use ear covers that can be worn with a bridle, especially if you ride in wooded areas near water. Stable your horse at dawn and dusk, when black flies are most active.

5. PRIMARY SEBORRHEA (dandruff)

• Appearance: Seborrhea can be dry or oily. In the dry form, small flakes of skin appear routinely, usually at the base of the mane and tail, and sand-like flecks may appear on the girth area or anywhere sweat accumulates. Oily seborrhea causes large, waxy crusts, often on the elbows, hocks or lower legs; when peeled off, these may leave hairless patches up to several inches in diameter. Dandruff sometimes causes a fetid odour, but the horse is not usually itchy or in pain.
• Causes: Heredity plays a significant role in cases of primary seborrhea, and it is more common in Arabians and Thoroughbreds. In affected individuals, dandruff is likely to be a lifelong issue. Please note, however, that primary seborrhea looks just like secondary seborrhea, which can also be either oily or dry. The  biggest difference is that secondary seborrhea develops in horses who had not previously experienced the condition, although the onset can be very gradual. Secondary seborrhea is a sign that can accompany several potentially serious illnesses, including liver or intestinal disease
• Treatment: No treatment is required, but most people prefer to do so for aesthetic reasons. SEE our Anti-Fungal Face & Body Wash and Anti-Fungal Spray—both of which are effective in treating dandruff. Consult your veterinarian if your horse develops seborrhea or if a mild case seems to be getting significantly worse with no obvious explanation.
• There are a number of natural products available that, when used as directed, can dissolve flakes and loosen oily scales. It's best to choose products formulated for use on horses; human products can be too harsh. Gentle scrubbing with a soft to medium bristled brush can help remove crusts. If you have difficulty controlling a stubborn case, talk to your veterinarian; who may suggest performing diagnostic work, such as blood tests, to rule out other causes. Secondary seborrhea is likely to clear up when the underlying disease is treated.
• Prevention: Regular grooming stimulates circulation and natural oil production that help keep the skin healthy and clean. Feeding vegetable oils, especially omega-3 fatty acids and supplements that contain biotin may also help promote healthier skin. Talk to your veterinarian or an equine nutritionist before making changes in your horse's diet.

6. EOSINOPHILIC GRANULOMA with collagen degeneration (nodular collagenolytic granuloma, nodular necrobiosis, or simply nodules)

• Appearance: distinct, firm nodules about the size of a dime or smaller, found usually in the neck, back and withers.     Several small nodules may cluster together to form what appears to be a larger lump. The skin above is normal, with no hair loss, and the nodules do not contain pus. The bumps can occur in horses of any age, breed or gender. They usually are not painful or itchy, unless they've been irritated by rubbing. Over time, they may mineralise, which makes them feel harder.
• Causes: The nodules are caused by the breakdown of collagen, the protein that forms the structure of connective tissue, in the middle layer of the skin. Why this happens is not fully understood, but the inciting event is believed to be hypersensitivity, when the immune system overreacts to the presence of some allergen and creates a "mass" to contain it. Allergic reactions to insect bites are thought to be the most common cause of these nodules, but injections with silicone-coated needles, minor scratches from body clipping and other traumas may be responsible in some cases.
• Treatment: The nodules are harmless, unless they are interfering with tack or continuing to grow in size because the horse is rubbing them, in which case your veterinarian can apply unnatural methods to 'shrink them' or, if the nodules are still present after three or more injections (which are usually given at two-week intervals), he/she may suggest surgical removal. The nodules become  more difficult to treat medically once they have calcified, so some veterinarians may recommend more aggressive treatment earlier after they appear.
• Prevention: Take measures to protect your horse from biting flies, including the use of fly sprays and turnout sheets. If your horse has developed nodules at injection sites, ask your veterinarian to use non-coated needles for future injections.

7. MANGE

• Appearance: small, round bumps at first, soon followed by bald spots, with scaly, thickened skin, usually on the lower legs of draft horses with heavy feathering, although any horse can be affected. In more serious cases the skin may be rubbed raw and show signs of secondary infections. Mange causes itching, and horses will rub, stamp and bite at their legs. In rare cases, mange may appear on other parts of the body.
• Causes: Mange is a parasitic infection caused by several species of tiny mites that can barely be seen by the naked eye. The most common form that occurs in horses in the United States is chorioptic mange, caused by the mite Chorioptes equi, which typically affects the lower legs of horses with feathering. Although rare, horses may also develop psoroptic mange (Psoroptes equi), which produces lesions under the mane and tail, under the jaw and in the groin and armpits, and demodectic mange (Demodex equi), over the face, neck and shoulders. Not only is mange uncomfortable for the horse, it can cause permanent thickening and scarring of the skin that can impede the movement of the pastern joints.
• Treatment: There are a number of unnatural and natural topical anti-parasitic products that can be effective against mange—SEE our Anti-Fungal Face & Body Wash and Anti-Fungal Spray. Clipping the legs will help the topical treatments reach the skin but may not be necessary in all cases, especially if the infection is still mild. Call your veterinarian if the infection is severe or does not respond to treatment. He/She can examine skin scrapings under a microscope to confirm the presence of the mites, and he/she may suggest an alternative treatment. Oral antibiotics may be necessary to treat secondary infections.
• Prevention: Mites usually are passed directly from horse to horse, so do not allow your horse to have contact with other horses at shows or events and quarantine newcomers on your farm, especially if they have visible bald areas that appear to be itchy. Some horses can carry the mites without showing signs of infection and can be a source of recurrence after other horses are treated. If you have an outbreak, it's a good idea to treat all horses who have been in contact with the ones affected and change out all of the stall bedding used by affected horses.

8. LICE (pediculosis)

• Appearance: hair loss from rubbing, usually appearing first on the shoulders and neck, as well as on the head and the base of the mane and tail. Affected areas are intensely itchy and may also have abrasions and scabs from rubbing and possibly secondary infections. Flattened insects up to two to four millimeters long may be visible if the hair is parted and the skin examined in good light. Pale, translucent eggs may be attached to nearby hairs. The horse is also likely to be generally in poor health. Lice infestations tend to be more severe during the winter months but can occur at any time of year.
• Causes: Two types of these parasitic insects infect horses: Chewing lice (Damalinia equi) feed on sloughed-off dead skin cells; these are more likely to affect the neck, flanks and the base of the tail. Biting or sucking lice (Haematopinus asini) feed on blood; this species prefers longer hair and may be found under the forelock and mane, the tail and on the pasterns of long-feathered horses. Both types cause skin irritation and itching.
• Treatment: Not only is a lice infestation extremely uncomfortable for the horse, severe cases can cause anemia. Several types of products are effective against lice. You can choose the unnatural approach: permethrin sprays and wipe-ons, insecticidal powders and shampoos. However, because the insecticides will not kill eggs, the treatment needs to be repeated in two weeks to eliminate newly hatched adults. Alternatively, you can go with a natural approach, e.g., using our Anti-Fungal/Anti-Microbial products—which are effective for treating lice. Whatever you choose, read and follow label instructions and precautions carefully. Many treatments need to thoroughly coat the skin to be effective, but there are some products that may irritate small cuts and abrasions.
• Prevention: Lice can be passed directly from horse to horse, as well as via shared tools and equipment. Isolate affected horses as well as those who have been exposed to them.
• Louse eggs that detach from the horse's coat can hatch and re-introduce the infestation, so it is important to clean and sterilize any tack and equipment that was used on the affected horse. Clean brushes and small tools with a natural insecticide, or boil items that will not be damaged by heat. Pads and blankets can be sterilized by machine washing and drying at a high heat setting. Also spray or scrub down stall walls or paddock fences and change the bedding.

A final note: Your horse's skin is his first line of defense against most of the bugs and microbes in his world, and he will most likely experience his fair share of minor ailments over the course of his lifetime. By learning what to do, what not to do, and when to call the veterinarian, you can do your part to keep his skin healthy and strong.

Reference

Scott, D. & Miller, W (2003). Equine Dermatology. Elsevier Science, St Louis, Missouri: USA

Health Article: December 2018

Toxic Plants: what you need to know to keep your horse safe

On the whole, horses generally avoid eating poisonous plants, especially when more palatable choices are available, and especially if they have lots of good-quality hay and good-quality pasture available to them. Most poisonous plants have defense mechanisms; syrup or sap that’s very bitter, or spines and thorns that make them uncomfortable to chew or swallow — so horses will generally avoid them.

Even so, there are some harmful plants that are attractive to horses at certain times of the year. Wilted Red Maple leaves, for example, are among the plants most toxic to horses. However, they can be hard for horses to resist because the leaves’ high sugar content entices them. Horses can be exposed to red maple leaves in the autumn when drying leaves blow into pastures. Ingesting 680 g is toxic in a horse and 1.4 kg is lethal. Red maple has an oxidant that destroys hemoglobin (red blood cells). Horses will present with weakness, jaundice and anemia, and their urine may turn dark brown as the body filters out the dead cells.

Other plants outside-of-pastures can also be toxic to horses; such as ornamental plants used in landscaping, including rhododendron, azalea and yew. The latter ornamental plant is an evergreen, so it (and other evergreens) remain toxic year-round because they never lose their leaves. Between 300 g and 450 g of yew leaves are sufficient to kill a 453 kg horse. Often these plants are introduced into a horse’s environment via a well-meaning neighbour. For example, a neighbour might clip rhododendron, azalea, or Japanese yew plants and put the clippings in the pasture, thinking they are helping to feed the horses. The best thing an owner can do to prevent this from happening is to talk with neighbours and ask them not to feed the horses anything, including lawn and garden clippings.

Some weeds and wildflowers are also toxic to horses. One such plant is the weed Senecio, also known as groundsel. Senecio‘s toxic effects can take a month or more to appear in horses, but clinical signs of Senecio-related poisoning are generally easy to identify. Senecio gradually destroys the liver, causing the owner to see weight loss, jaundiced eyes, and in white skinned areas — photo sensitisation that looks like severe sunburn. At this stage, there is no effective treatment or way to reverse the liver damage.

Detection and Prevention

Horse owners need to be extremely watchful to changes in their horses’ appearance and behaviour in order to detect possible plant poisoning. So it's important to know your horse well — what is normal for your horse. If you suspect your horse has ingested something toxic, call your veterinarian right away.

The first thing you should do as a horse owner, is walk your pastures to see what kind of plants are growing there to identify the ones that are toxic to your horses. Anytime you find a plant you can’t identify or are not familiar with, take a digital photo of the plant and try to identify it through someone who is knowledgeable (or identify it online). You can also minimise the risk of toxic plants growing in your pastures if you create buffer zones between neighbours’ properties and your own. These zones will separate your horses from toxic plants residing next door and allow you to control plant growth without violating property lines.

If you use herbicides to keep toxic plants from invading pastures, you need to be sure that the herbicidal preparations are manufactured to be effective on the plants you specifically want to destroy. It is also advisable to read labels carefully and be strict about following manufacturers’ application directions — especially for restricting grazing on treated pastures. Use organic weed killers if possible and always wear gloves when removing poisonous plants from your property by hand — immediately disposing of any toxic plants in a location where horses cannot access them.

Another point, is to ensure that your horse's bedding is not toxic. For example, a bedding made of shavings derived from black walnut wood is dangerous and can cause laminitis in horses simply from standing in it. In fact, bedding that is only 20% black walnut shavings is toxic to horses and can cause laminitis — so it is wise to know what your bedding is made of and where it comes from.

Likewise, be watchful of toxic plants that could have been incorporated into bales when the hay was harvested and examine the hay before you feed it to your horse. Ideally, purchase certified weed-free hay to reduce the risk of toxic weeds which can often invade hay meadows. It is also wise to inspect the bottoms of hay feeders or buckets for plant seeds and clean out the feed bunk regularly, as some horses are ‘bottom feeders’ — i.e., they eat the seeds that fall to the bottom of the feed bucket (which might be toxic). You can minimise the risk of toxins in hay and bedding by purchasing your horses products from familiar, reputable local suppliers. Likewise, any supplements you add to your horses' diets should be purchased from reputable manufacturers and it is advisable to follow feeding directions carefully. Doses in herbal supplements are very small, so they are not likely to be harmful if you follow the instructions.

A final note ...

Unfortunately, despite horse owners’ best efforts, horses can still ingest poisonous plants. If this happens, try to identify the plant your horse ingested and contact your veterinarian right away. Besides calling a veterinarian immediately, there’s not much a horse owner/carer can do except remove the horse from the suspected source — be it the hay or the pasture. A quality diet helps minimise plant-poisoning risks. Even though some horses might sample the potentially poisonous plants they find in their pastures, most will not ingest these ill-tasting plants in quantity as long as lush grass and quality hay are available.

Health Article: November 2018

Healthy Hooves

Horses hooves require constant attention to keep them strong and healthy.

1. Pick out your horse's feet regularly: This may sound logical but it's the single most important thing you can do to maintain your horse's hoof-health. Picking out your horse's hooves regularly means you are more likely to detect issues early on, e.g., thrush or an abscess—before they become a major issue.

* It is a good idea to pick out your horse's hooves before each ride, after your ride (in case something gets stuck in them during your ride), when you bring them in from the paddock to stable them and also before turning them out the next morning.

Each time you clean your horse's hooves, take an extra couple of minutes after you've pried out any packed debris to gently clear the crevice of the frog and scrape any remaining bits of matter off the sole with the tip of the pick. You want to be able to see the sole's entire surface—so it's a good idea to finish the job with a stiff brush. Some hoof picks come with brush attached or you can buy a brush separately and inexpensively.

2. Establish what is normal: While handling your horse's feet to pick them out, notice their temperature; when everything's okay they will feel 'slightly' warm. Take a moment to locate the digital pulse with two fingers pressed against the back of his pastern; you are interested in the strength of the pulse under normal conditions, not the rate of it. Also check the frog, which should have the texture and firmness of a new rubber eraser when it's healthy. Do not be alarmed if everything seems healthy but the frog appears to be peeling off—as most horses shed the frog at least twice a year, and sometimes more often. Your farrier's regular trimming of the frog may have prevented you from noticing this natural process.

3. When picking out the feet, look for signs of...

• Thrush. The first clue to this bacterial condition (usually caused by prolonged standing in manure, mud or other wet, filthy conditions, (or even by prolonged use of pads), is a foul smell and dark ooze from the cleft of the frog. Later, the frog becomes cheesy in texture. Although thrush can eventually cause lameness and significant hoof damage, its early stage is simple to treat. Use a product with anti-fungal properties to treat the fungal infection: such as equosano's Anti-Fungal Spray and make sure your horse's stall is clean and dry. If you normally bed with straw, consider a change to much more absorbent shavings. Some horses—especially those with upright, narrow feet with deep clefts that tend to trap more dirt, debris, and manure, are predisposed to thrush even when well cared for. If you think your horse has an early case, ask your farrier to check.
• Puncture. If a nail or other object pierces your horse's sole and then falls out, the entry wound will probably be invisible by the time you pick out their feet and you will be unaware of it until it causes an abscess. However, in some cases the object remains in place, to be discovered when you brush the last bits of dirt from the sole. In this situation—DON'T PULL IT OUT. Put your horse in their stall and protect the punctured foot—helping the foreign object stay put with wrapping and duct tape or with a slip-on medication boot, and then call your veterinarian right away. An X-ray of the foot can show how far the object has penetrated and which structures are involved. If you pick your horse's feet out regularly, you will detect the problem within a few hours of its occurrence—then your veterinarian can remove the object and advise a course of treatment.
• Cracks. Some cracks are superficial; others can worsen, involving sensitive hoof structures without appropriate shoeing. One cause of a crack is a hoof abscess, which breaks out through the coronet band at the top of the hoof, creating a weak spot in the hoof wall that must be attended to as it grows out. If you notice a crack in your horse's hoof, call your farrier and describe its location and size so he can decide whether it needs attention now or can wait until the next regular shoeing.
• Abscess. If your horse's digital pulse feels stronger than usual and/or their foot is warmer than normal to the touch—the cause could be an abscess inside the hoof from a badly placed shoeing nail, a bruise or an overlooked sole puncture. Your routine check can alert you to the problem and get your veterinarian or farrier involved before your horse experiences greater pain—as your horse may be at least slightly lame already on the abscessed foot, which throbs from the pressure of increased blood flow to the infected area. If you find increased heat and a stronger-than-usual digital pulse in both front feet, and if he's shifting uncomfortably from foot to foot, call your veterinarian immediately. These are signs of laminitis—an inflammatory condition that can cause severe hoof damage, and if not treated promptly, can even be fatal.

4. Schedule regular farrier visits according to your horse's individual needs. Although six to eight weeks is the average, there's really no standard interval for trimming and shoeing. If your farrier is correcting an issue such as under-run heels, a club foot or flare in the hoof wall, your horse may benefit from a shorter interval. If everything looks fine but you notice that he begins forging—striking the back of a front hoof with the toe of a back hoof in the last few days before his next shoeing, ask your farrier whether a shorter schedule might avoid the problem; possibly four to five weeks in the summer and slightly longer in the winter.

5. If your horse is shod, check his shoes each time you pick out his feet. Look out for:

• Risen clinches: The ends of the nails your farrier trimmed and clinched (bent flush with the outer hoof wall) at his last shoeing are now sticking out from the hoof. This is a sign the shoe is loosening, probably because it's been in place for several weeks; he can injure himself if the risen clinches on one foot brush the inside of the other leg.
• A sprung or shifted shoe: When, instead of sitting flat on your horse's hoof, the shoe is pulled away and perhaps even bent—it's sprung. If it's moved to one side or the other, it's shifted. In either case, the nails in the problem shoe can press on sensitive hoof structures when he places weight on the foot.

6. Learn how to remove a shoe: Many farriers are glad to teach clients how to do this (you can now buy these tools yourself quite cheaply). If you can remove a sprung or shifted shoe, you may save your horse unnecessary pain and hoof damage and make life easier for your farrier or veterinarian.

7. Help your horse grow the best possible hooves. Some horses naturally have better hooves than others. Your horse may already be producing the best hoof he's capable of, or the following steps may enable him to do better:

• Fine-tune his diet: Ask your veterinarian whether your feeding program is appropriate for your horse's nutritional needs.
• Add a biotin supplement to his ration (ask your farrier for a recommendation). Some hooves benefit from these supplements; others show little change. Plan to use the supplement for six months to a year; that's how long it takes any benefits to show up in new hoof growth.
• Give him consistent exercise: Work on good surfaces, especially at walk and trot—as this increases circulation to your horse's hooves and promotes growth.

8. Avoid the "summer cycle" of alternate soaking and drying of hooves. Your horse's hooves can adapt well over time to conditions that are consistently dry or consistently damp, but hooves suffer when the environment fluctuates between wet and dry. Unfortunately, this is often the situation during the very months when you want to use him the most: late spring, summer, and early autumn. Evening turnout (a summer strategy to avoid biting insects), puts hooves in prolonged contact with dew-soaked grass; they swell and soften with moisture, just as your fingernails soften after hours in water. Back in a dry, hot environment during the day, the hooves dry and contract. With repetition of this cycle, horseshoe nails loosen as their holes through the hoof wall enlarge slightly. Such summer activities as work, stomping flies, or if your horse is restless, walking the fence accelerates the loosening.

There are a couple of things you can do to minimise this pattern:

• Cut back on summer turnout time: Try to reduce by a few hours the time your horse spends standing in a dewy night-time paddock or stomping flies outside during the day.
• Reduce moisture absorption: Avoid hoof conditioners that leave the hoof feeling oily; they can actually soften hoof wall if used frequently, and if applied before your farrier's visit, they can make hooves harder for him to work on.
• Avoid unnecessary baths: Sponging the sweat off your horse after schooling works just as well, without causing him to stand in a puddle for half an hour or more. Save the full-scale bath for just before the show.
• Shorten his summer shoeing schedule: A lost shoe often means hoof damage, which escalates the cycle of summer shoeing problems. Spacing your farrier's regular visits a week or so closer may avoid emergency calls.

9. Avoid turning out your horse in muddy footing: Hours of standing in mud may encourage thrush or scratches (a skin infection in the fetlock area that can cause lameness). Mud is hard on shoes, too: The suction of deep mud can drag off a shoe already loosened by alternating wet and dry conditions. Mud also makes picking up your horse's feet a harder job; if your horse is slow about getting his front feet out of the way, he may end up pulling off the heels of his front shoes because he's stepping on them with his back toes.

10. Protect your horse's hooves during road travel: Without a covering for his heels, he can easily step on the edge of a shoe and pull it partially loose—then spend the remainder of the journey standing on the nails of the sprung or shifted shoe. Another vulnerable area is the coronet band: the rim of tissue at the top of each hoof that generates new hoof-wall growth. Injury to this area can happen if your horse steps on himself while struggling to keep his balance in a moving trailer—which can interrupt hoof growth in the area below the affected spot. Good quality, full-coverage Velcro-fastened shipping boots reduce the likelihood of these problems.

Reference

10 hoof care tips to help keep your horse's hooves healthy. (2002, June 25). Practical Horseman Magazine. Retrieved from https://practicalhorsemanmag.com/health-archive/ten-horse-hoof-care-tips-11352